Cooking with Tammy Kelly: What is Brown Butter? How Do I Use It?
What is brown butter, where did it come from all of a sudden, and where do I find it? To some brown butter is not new, years ago I had brown butter oysters on the half shell at Chef and the Farmer and they were so delicious, I set out to try to replicate, which of course, I could not, but I did learn all about brown butter in the process.
Brown butter might seem like a “fancy” ingredient but it is actually pretty simple. You can make the brown butter yourself using only one ingredient and your devoted attention.
Brown Butter is just butter that has been cooked past the melting point. Basically, the milk solids separate from the butterfat and sink to the bottom of the pan, causing it to turn brown. Once brown the butter takes on a deeper, nuttier flavor than regular melted butter.
To make Brown Butter, melt a stick of butter in a pan over medium-high heat, swirling occasionally. After a few minutes, the butter will begin to foam and solid particles will begin to settle at the bottom of the pan. When the butter begins to turn a caramel color with a rich, nutty aroma, remove from the heat and allow to cool. Be sure to watch carefully and remove the pan from the heat to avoid burning. The hard part for me is knowing exactly when it is ready, but practice will make your brown butter perfect.
Roasted Oysters with Hot Brown Butter
1 stick, 4 tablespoons unsalted butter
1 medium garlic clove, minced
1 tablespoon finely chopped shallot
1 tablespoon fresh squeezed lemon juice
1 ½ teaspoons finely grated lemon zest
Tabasco, or your favorite hot sauce
Salt and freshly ground pepper
Rock salt
1 dozen oysters
2 tablespoons chopped parsley, optional
To make the Brown Butter, in a saucepan, melt the butter over medium-low heat. Continue cooking the butter, swirling the pan frequently, until it begins to brown and smell nutty, 5-7 minutes. Pour the butter into a heat proof bowl and add the garlic and shallots.
Let the butter cool for a few minutes, then stir in the lemon juice and zest. Season to taste with the hot sauce, salt and pepper.
Transfer the bowl to the freezer to solidify but still a little soft. If it freezes, just take it out and let it warm up a bit to room temperature. Transfer the butter to a sheet of plastic wrap or wax paper, and roll up to form a log. Freeze.
Preheat the oven to broil. Fill a cast iron skillet (or I have a cast iron pan that is specifically designed for oysters) with about ½ inch of rock salt. Shuck the oysters, leaving them on the half shell and nestling them in the skillet.
When all of the oysters have been shucked, top each with a slice of the hot brown butter. Transfer to the oven and roast until the butter is bubbling, about 4 to 5 minutes. Sprinkle with parsley and serve.
Brown Butter Pecan Pie
(I heard about this one on the Today Show and plan to give it a try for Thanksgiving, I am always hunting for the perfect pecan pie recipe.)
For making the Crust (or you can buy a readymade crust, like I will probably do)
1 cup all-purpose flour, plus more for dusting
2 teaspoons sugar
1 teaspoon fine sea salt
½ cup, 1 stick unsalted butter
¼ cup plus 2 tablespoons ice-cold water
1 tablespoon fresh lemon juice or apple cider
2 cups dried beans or pie weights, for baking
For the Filling
5 tablespoons unsalted butter
3 large eggs
1 cup of light corn syrup
2/3 cup packed light brown sugar
1 tablespoon pure vanilla
1 teaspoon fine sea salt
2 cups chopped pecans
Vanilla ice cream, optional for serving
To make the crust, in the bowl of a food processor, combine the flour, sugar, and salt. Add the butter and pulse until the mixture has a course texture but the butter pieces are still visible, about 10 pulses.
Combine the ice water with the lemon juice in a measuring cup and slowly pour it in while pulsing the dough just until it comes together, about 10 more pulses. Turn out the dough onto a wide sheet of plastic wrap and flatten into a 6 inch round. Refrigerate for at least 1 hour before serving.
Remove the dough from the refrigerator and bring to room temperature, about 15 minutes.
Turn the dough onto a lightly floured surface. Roll it into a 14-inch round and transfer to a 9-inch pir dish, allowing the extra dough to hang over the edges. Press the dough into the bottom and up the sides of the pan. Trim the edges of the pie dough leaving a 1-inch overhang. With floured fingers, fold the hanging dough over and crimp by pinching. Chill dough for another 10 minutes in the freezer.
Place the oven racks in the middle position. Preheat the oven to 425 degrees.
Remove the dough from the freezer and prick in several places (this will allow the steam to escape and prevent the pie from bubbling up). Place the pie pan on a baking sheet. Line the dough with a large sheet of parchment paper. Pour dried beans or weights into the center of the parchment paper and flatten the beans into an even layer. Bake the crust until the edges are lightly golden, 12 to 15 minutes. Let the crust cool before carefully removing the parchment and the beans or weights.
Reduce the oven temperature to 350 degrees.
To make the filling, melt the butter in a small saucepan over medium heat. Allow the butter to bubble as the white foamy solids rise to the surface. Cook the butter, without stirring or moving the pan, until the milk solids become amber in color, about 4 minutes. Once the butter begins to brown and smell nutty, shut off the heat and immediately transfer the brown butter to a heat proof bowl and let cool.
In a large bowl, whisk together the eggs, corn syrup, brown sugar, vanilla and salt. Fold in the pecans using a flexible spatula, then stir in the brown butter. Pour the mixture into the pre-baked pie crust. Bake the pie until the center is slightly jiggly and the crust is golden brown, about 50 to 55 minutes.
Let the pie cool on a wire rack for at least 3 hours. Serve with vanilla ice cream. Enjoy!!
Roasted Cauliflower with Caper Brown Butter
1 medium head cauliflower
3 tablespoons olive oil
¼ cup salted butter
1 clove garlic, minced
2 tablespoons coarsely chopped capers
¼ teaspoon lemon pepper seasoning
Preheat the oven to 400 degrees. Line a baking sheet with parchment paper.
Trim off the bottom of the cauliflower stem to create a flat surface. Place cauliflower head onto a cutting board with the stem facing down, cut the cauliflower vertically into 1 to 1 ½ inch slices. Remove any tough stem pieces. Cut the slices into smaller pieces, about the size of the florets. Place on the baking sheet and drizzle with olive oil.
Roast in the oven for 10 minutes, flip pieces over and roast for 10 minutes more.
Meanwhile, cut butter into 4 pieces. Melt in a small saucepan over medium high heat, stirring constantly until butter begins to brown, about 4 to 5 minutes. Butter will foam up, then subside. The butter should have a nutty aroma. Stir in the garlic and continue stirring for 15 to 20 seconds. Add in capers and lemon pepper. Remove from the heat.
Spoon brown butter and caper mixture over the cauliflower and serve.